Archive for the ‘A Traveler’s Journal’ Category

Wake-up! There’s a Rooster in the Kitchen

Friday, March 23rd, 2012

There is one bird I love most at my dad’s ranch—the cutest, sweetest, most beautiful little rooster in the world. He likes to sit on your lap and have his ruddy feathers stroked and he’s so friendly you can scoop him up in one loose hand.

So you can imagine my concern when Kevin and I arrived to babysit the ranch for Dad and Marie-Laure and discovered that the rooster was acting sick. ML told me he pecked around like he was eating but he didn’t actually take any food in. His beak was a little overgrown and when I felt his breastbone he was much too thin. Beleaguered with packing for their enormous trip, ML hoped I might know how to help.

After my folks got on the road, I tried to hand feed the rooster. Nada. He half-heartedly pecked into my cupped palm and then got woobly and sat back to recover his balance. By afternoon he was fluffed up and motionless and I knew he would not survive another cold night without food.

Because birds have incredibly high metabolisms they can lose weight (and strength) very rapidly. Once they pass the tipping point and can’t keep up their body temperature, it’s a quick fall into hyperthermia and most don’t survive. Heat is critical! At the zoo we put sick birds into an incubator set at 104°F. Of course here at the ranch I don’t have an incubator, so I found a pet carrier and a space heater and got my beloved rooster set up in the warm kitchen.

At the zoo we inject subcutaneous fluids to help stabilize the body. No medical fluids here, so I found a large dropper and did my best to get him to drink at least a little water. It wasn’t enough to rehydrate him, much less contribute the calories needed for recovery.

At the zoo we have syringes with long soft tubes that can be slipped down into a bird’s crop for adding high-calorie gruel. No such thing exists on the ranch. Or does it??? I got to wondering if I could make something to do the trick. Instead of a syringe, I had the dropper—maybe that would work. I hunted around the house until I came up with a length of relatively soft tubing off an old bottle pump. Amazingly the tube fit perfectly in the tip of the dropper and with a few test runs over the sink, I had a working delivery system.

Next I mixed some water with raw egg (wierd maybe, but recommended because chickens are omnivorous) and then soaked and added some lay crumble. I poured the runny contents into my dropper and Kevin held our patient still while I carefully ran the tube into his crop. Years of experience and a good eye assured I didn’t go into the lungs.

After the tube-feeding I put the rooster back in his carrier and cranked the heater. But he looked terrible. Much worse, in fact! Instead of sitting, he collapsed onto his chest, eyes closed tight. My mind spun with worry. I was confident I hadn’t gone into his lungs (confirmed by the fact he wasn’t coughing). And even though the tube wasn’t quite as soft as it should have been, I didn’t think I’d punctured his crop—I’d been so cautious. Maybe he had an illness that kept him from eating and was exacerbated by adding food. Ugh. Nothing to do but wait.

I tried reading. Checked email. But every 10 minutes I scurried back to make sure my chicken was still breathing. He slept a long time—the sleep of someone who needs it. Then as I quietly prepared dinner, he suddenly popped up and started ravenously eating from his dish. It worked! I trimmed his beak and he’s been gorging like a Roman king ever since.

Kevin and I thought having a chicken in the kitchen was SO funny! We cracked up every time we sat down to eat a few feet away. I’ll have waffles and coffee… oh, and the rooster wants another serving of scratch, please. Ha!

Perhaps you have already considered the downfall to all this folly. Every morning we were rattled awake by his startling predawn crow, which rang through the house like a living alarm clock. Okay, that part was not so funny.

The Wagging Tails Make It All Worthwhile

Friday, January 27th, 2012

Oletta took a photo of Adrian comforting this dog while the one she was walking approached to make friends.

It’s the end of January and I’m in California on deployment with the Humane Society of the United States Animal Response Team, assisting over 80 dogs (and a few cats) that are awaiting adoption from a confiscation case. As always, the circumstances that lead law enforcement to take custody of the animals are deeply disturbing—but my teammates and I try not to dwell on such thoughts while we are here. Instead we focus on providing excellent care and raising the animals’ spirits as much we can.

Delivering food and cleaning cages is only part of the job. Dogs are social and have emotional needs as well as physical ones. So we spend time touching, encouraging and playing with each dog twice a day during long walks on the grass. Some of them have never had daily meals and personalized attention. After their exercise, we offer soft blankets and giant cookies (not unlike good 1960’s flight attendants) and you can see the gratitude in their eyes.

All of our new canine friends deserve homes but they each have their own brand of charm. Some are silly and gregarious. Others are thoughtful and shy. Just spending time getting to know their personalities fills me with joy.

Our crew signed a poster for a local woman who came down every day to cut blankets for the dogs. Oletta is standing next to me.

I’m serving aside some of the coolest people, too. Our crew works hard but keeps the energy fun and I’ve really connected with my roommate Oletta. She runs a very special dog camp in Oregon called Adventurous K9, where the dogs go off-leash in a pack and enjoy long romps through the forest. You will absolutely love the pictures and videos on her website! 

http://www.adventurousk9.com/  

The dogs here are finding homes day by day and getting them ALL placed with loving families is the ultimate goal. But we are already making their lives better.  It’s heartwarming, really. For all the stuff I do with animals, I think maybe my rescue work, this work—making a difference in a time of crisis—brings me the greatest fulfillment. The results of our effort are so tangible, so immediate. Hunger is fed. Pain is relieved. With tenderness, even fear is forgotten.

And every day brings the most symbolic reward… a roomful of wagging tails.

Time to Celebrate!

Friday, November 25th, 2011

Humpback whale breaches in Golfo Dulce

Jump for joy! The impending Yellowfin tuna farm permitted for construction near the mouth of Golfo Dulce has been stopped! As Jorge would say, “Yipy!” In early November SETENA (Costa Rica’s Environmental Secretariat) took decisive action when it ended negotiations with Granjas Atuneras de Golfito S. A. The foreign interest conglomerate had been pushing for seven years to develop the tuna farm but was finally blocked after failure to comply with a Supreme Court order to perform an environmental impact study.

Well, they might not have conducted an investigation in Golfo Dulce, but Jorge and I certainly did. It was the tuna that first spurred our research. In January-February 2010 we undertook our first multi-species sighting survey to collect and publish baseline data on sea life before the area could be changed or damaged by a mariculture project. The interesting findings from that study, which were presented in my 2010 project report, justified funding for the recent extension survey in July-August of this year.

Which brings me to my second bit of exciting news: The Rainy season extension of the multi-species marine sighting survey in Golfo Gulce, Costa Rica, July – August 2011, final report and comparative summary is now available. This new paper not only illuminates details of our 2011 (rainy season) findings but offers a comparative look at the 2010 (dry season) data.

All our sighting points from both surveys (red = dry season 2010, purple = rainy season 2011) reveal high-use areas for marine fauna inside Golfo Dulce.

In fact, if you combine both surveys, Jorge and I logged a total of 55 days on the water for a total of 424 observation hours. And we recorded 458 sightings for over 38 species of marine wildlife! Whew!

What were the highlights?
  • Well, our data indicate that Humpback whales from both northern and southern hemispheres utilize Golfo Dulce. Birthing events were reported to us during both seasons and we personally witnessed nursing.
  • We identified over 80 individual Bottlenose dolphins inside the gulf. We also documented skin disease in the population, which could possibly be linked to human activity.
  • Along with sightings for Olive Ridley sea turtles and critically endangered Hawksbill sea turtles, we found Golfo Dulce to be a year-round breeding and feeding ground for hundreds of Pacific Green sea turtles!
  • And by marking the distribution of pelagic sea snakes, we revealed a resident colony of xanthic (all-yellow or predominantly yellow) pelagic sea snakes in the upper reaches of the gulf.

What an honor to be able to share these incredible insights—Golfo Dulce is clearly an important marine habitat for many species! BTW… I’ve posted photos and video of several animals in previous blogs and on my Facebook page, so you might want to browse around.

Now that Golfo Dulce is no longer under imminent threat of a tuna farm, there is  time for even more research. Many excellent biologists are conducting studies on specific species and their emerging data is just as exciting as ours. In fact, there is every indication that Golfo Dulce will gain international recognition as a rare tropical fiord with a unique ecology. So thanks to everyone who worked so hard to protect it!

Jorge holds up a Yipy candybar during our 2010 survey. It became a running joke between us.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 4: And Her Eyes Sparkled with the Secret of It

Friday, August 26th, 2011

Now the days float by in blues and teals and misty greys. I feel like Margaret Wise Brown’s black kitten, peering  from my seaward vessel in search of life’s secrets. What will we find today? Perhaps a little island.

the back of a resting green sea turtle with free-loading barnacles

Although our motor is plenty powerful, we are still at the mercy of the water, our boat falling into rhythm with the waves. Rumba rolls. Foxtrot ripples. Sometimes there comes a swaying chop that turns our dance into a wild salsa and leaves us laughing like giddy children.

Only once have we met the kind of intimidating swells that could topple us. We were skirting the waters near the open Pacific when the wind picked up. Suddenly we were being tousled by 6-foot waves that seemed to be fighting over which direction to go. Jorge held tight to the controls and powered us into the face of each contender so as not to be hit broadside and overturned. 

Water splashed willynilly into our boat and, as I struggled to keep my weight planted, I got to thinking about the marine radio that we didn’t yet have and how this whole research thing was just a tinge on the edgy side. Thankfully the battle lasted less than an hour, the bullying waves wandered off like street punks and the gulf smoothed over. Jorge acted nonchalant but I could tell he was rattled.

Of course it rains—it is the rainy season. Huddled in waterproof slickers we always keep our course, faithful foolhardy souls. But downpours are rare and our visibility has remained excellent. And just in case you have spent even a moment wondering if it’s all worthwhile…

Bottlenose dolphins traveling in a protective pack with a newborn (look closely!)

baby Humpback whale by mama, nursing (see the milk?), resting (see the paired blowholes?), spyhopping (see the bumps on its head called tubercles?)

our 2010 data showed all the sea snakes in upper Golfo Dulce are bright yellow... I just love them!

dolphins are said to leap when searching for food, which may be better seen from above the surface

Each day brings new discoveries and adds to the wonderful images adrift in my head*. Each day is the same and yet so very different. Each day I wonder… What will we find today?

*I have been posting additional photos and videos on Facebook.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 3: Rub-a-dub-dub, a Toy Boat in the Tub

Friday, August 12th, 2011

Caja de Fósforos is Spanish for "matchbox"

Jorge and I wasted no time getting out on the water in our miniture-sized boat, newly named Caja de Fósforos, and that first day had a coming-home feeling. The Gulf was just as I remembered it and I found myself delighting in the familiar landmarks—the emerald peaks of Piedras Blancas National Park, the sirena statue guarding the palm-lined beaches of tiny Playa Blanca, white rolling waves crashing on the rocks near Tamales and, to the south, the mouth of Golfo Dulce, open as though saying something thoughtful and neighborly to the coast of Panáma seen through the haze. My soul instantly reintegrated.

A pod of Pantropical Spotted dolphins stitched past. I was surprised by their disinterest; we could always count on them to swirl about our boat for a bit of play. Why no interest today? Then we noticed that the group was subtly divided into pairs and each pair arched in unison with one large and one small dorsal fin rhythmically breaking the water surface. Mothers with calves.

mermaid statue among the reefs of Playa Blanca

Ah, yes, this study was about seasonal shifts after all, and here was my first inkling that life might be just a little different in Golfo Dulce during the rainy season. We watched Blue crabs that day too— little aquatic crustaceans I hadn’t seen before—kicking around at the surface.

Although storm clouds could be seen in several directions, the rain held its breath over the water and blue skies prevailed. And a few sea turtles lifted their heads to nod our passing. It was a spectacular day of seascapes. 

However, arriving back at the marina in the afternoon, Jorge and I discovered that in our enthusiasm we had made one troubling miscalculation of timing. The tide had dropped and now 500 feet of sand stretched between us and our trailer. A bigger boat could be moored in the deep water. But Caja de Fósforos would sink in a soaking rain so had be hauled out every day. Because our old truck was too weak manage the steep launch ramp, we had used the shoreline for access.

I looked at Jorge hoping he could pull a bit of his rainforest magic.

“Eye-yey-yey,” was all he could muster.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 2: Another Year, Another Broken Boat

Friday, July 22nd, 2011

Raya, our boat from 2010, looking very sad indeed

The 50 hp motor we needed to push our 19-foot Raya was on the fritz. The gear box was shot. Having just arrived to discover the fact, I put on my best no-worries-every-problem-has-a-solution smile  and sat with Mike to explore my options—none of them floated any better than my defunct boat, which sat covered in leaf litter, perched on several decaying logs outside the house. 

That night I lay awake, twisting scenarios in my head with no resolution. Even Monday’s 5-hour car trip to plead with the marine mechanic proved fruitless and the stress was starting to feel like army ants in my stomach. All I could do was hold tight to my one last hope: Jorge. 

Jorge. He’s like a jungle Superman. I am always amazed by his calm, usually silent demeanor and ability to solve any problem with whatever meager supplies are on hand. Within minutes of his return home, he had a plan and I remember thinking, Why was I ever in doubt? 

Wednesday found us driving around the pueblo with Jorge congenially asking to borrow items not currently in use. Within an hour he had pieced together a water-worthy ensemble: a boat that would work with the small 15 hp motor at Mike’s and a short trailer to haul it. I couldn’t have been more relieved. 

There was however, one itty-bitty problem. The new boat was, well, itty-bitty. A mere 10-feet long. When the weather mounts, how would we possibly survive the swelling waves in this dinky tugboat?

Shame, shame, I thought, Never look a gift boat in the mouth.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 1: One Ticket to Paradise

Friday, July 8th, 2011

the view from the plane as we approached Golfo Dulce with the Osa Peninsula in the distance

I arrived in Puerto Jiménez, Costa Rica on a perfect Sunday morning after curving down out of the clouds and sweeping over my beloved Golfo Dulce. Stepping onto the tarmac, a twinkle of birdsong rushed from the green forest to greet me and a sweet dampness hung in the air like a tropical welcome sign. I took a deep inhale and let the place soak in through my lungs. Ahhh, Paradise. 

Soon I was back at the office of Osa Conservation (formerly Friends of the Osa), settling my belongings in the back bedroom and relishing the excitement of a project poised at the starting gate. Soon I would be on the water with the regular marine crowd of dolphins and sea turtles, doing my extension survey. 

I hung my mosquito net and took my first cold shower and, when the clock reached a respectable hour for visiting friends, I made my way the few short blocks to see Mike and Jorge. The reunion was long awaited. We had been discussing plans for this rainy season study since October 2010, sharing emails of anticipation. But I found Mike alone. “Where’s Jorge?” I inquired after a giant endless hug. 

“Corcovado,” he said, adding quickly to abate my disappointment, “He’ll be back Tuesday night.”

I was a little bummed. My arrival wasn’t nearly as festive as I’d imagined it would be and by the look on Mike’s face I could tell there was more bad news. He finally got it out, “The boat motor is broken.”

What?? Wait, I’m having déjà vu. A broken boat motor? Didn’t we already do this LAST time? And just like that my happy little universe crumbled into chaos.

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIPS: Homemade Instant Oatmeal—Just Add Water

Friday, June 24th, 2011

I’m not a big breakfast person but I know it’s an important meal. So when I’m out-of-town, I always try to eat something small but nutritious, especially if I’ll be driving cross-country, working outside or heading into an all-day event.

Instant oatmeal was a childhood favorite but they put a lot of junky preservatives in the store-bought kind and it gets thick and pasty. Turns out you can make a  delicious oatmeal drink—mixed to your own taste—using natural healthful ingredients. It’s fast and easy!

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIP #5: Prepare some baggies of homemade instant oatmeal for quick easy meals on the road.

I got this recipe from my Costa Rican friend Alberto on a 4-day kayak trip. He camps a lot and makes this delicious oatmeal drink every morning in the field. Individual servings can be put in zip-lock sandwich baggies so you can carry a stash in your tote.

Single serving (mix to taste):

1/4 C fine-ground organic oats (thicker oats will be chewier)

2 Tbsp dry whole milk powder

1-2 tsp raw cane sugar

pinch of sea salt

1 Tbsp ground flaxseed (optional)

pinch of cinnamon (optional)

1 C hot water

Mix dry contents and pour into a mug. Add the hot water and stir. It’s ready to drink! 

I do hope you’ve discovered something new and helpful in this week’s series. If you have some travel tips of your own, please share them with me on Facebook. And as you embark on your summer get-away, here’s wishing you safe and happy travels!

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIPS: Register with the Embassy

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

I went to Kenya many moons ago, when Kenya was safe for tourists. Things have changed. Because of swings in politics and economies, it’s vital that you have access to international travel information when planning a trip abroad.

While certain destinations may be foolhardy to consider, most are generally safe. That said, some of the most beautiful places on Earth come with a bit of risk, requiring you to pragmatically consider your wellbeing.

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIP #4: Register your international trip with STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program).

The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program is free service, provided by the Department of State, Bureau of Consular Affairs. It is available to any U.S. citizen who is traveling to a foreign nation.

Basically you enter a few details about your upcoming trip and the system registers you with the U.S. embassy or consulate at your destination. The information, which is protected so it can’t be shared without written authorization, will serve you should trouble arise. If you face any emergency off U.S. soil, our government can provide help faster and more effectively. This includes lost or stolen passports, which can happen anywhere.

STEP also sends you automatic updates, travel warnings and alerts that may affect the country you will be visiting. This is especially important when you are heading off to places facing political fluctuations like, for example, Thailand.

I found out about STEP when I was planning my 2007 trip to Guatemala. It was to be my first solo venture into a developing nation and registering my dates, itinerary and emergency contacts—knowing I was “on the radar” so to speak—definitely helped put me at ease. The trip went smoothly, as they usually do, and I never needed any assistance, but I appreciated the insurance and I’ve utilized the service several times since.

Tomorrow is Friday and my last tip will be a recipe for a simple traveler’s breakfast.

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIPS: Make a Reusable Packing Checklist

Wednesday, June 22nd, 2011

It’s a dash to the airport! Pausing in the driveway, you do a last-minute mental rundown of the stuff  you should have packed. T-shirts—check. Sandals—check. Shampoo, toothbrush, shaver—check, check, check. And off you go!

Only later you discover you’ve forgotten your camera. An umbrella. And the neck pillow for the plane. Dang! There’s just too much to manage!

Today’s tip ensures you pack everything necessary, every time. No matter how long or short, fancy or modest the journey, you will be ready to go before anyone can say, “Remember socks.” 

TRAVEL TIP #3: Make yourself a custom master packing list.

In my computer, I have created a personalized master list of ALL things I might POSSIBLY take on ANY trip. Whenever I am heading out of town, I simply print off a copy and pack whichever items are applicable.

The articles are divided by category. For example, my first category is Documents/Tools/Electronics. The photo to the right shows an excerpt from that section. It’s highly unlikely I would take all those items on any single trip, but by reviewing the options, I am sure to include the things I will need.

My other standard categories are Clothing Items (Shirts/tanks, Sweaters/sweatshirts, Dresses, Pants/shorts, PJ’s, etc.), Toiletries/Medications (Sunscreen/aloe lotion, Vitamins, GSE, Hair dryer, Makeup, etc) and Miscellaneous (TSA bag locks, Backpack/fanny sac, Snacks, Water bottle, etc). I have extra lists with items for going Scuba Diving, Camping or Piloting an Airplane.

One special category I created is called Extra-Light Load. This checklist serves me when I have to travel with naught but the bare essentials.

Whatever time you put into making your own personalized master packing list, it will be readily offset by the time you’ll save packing for future trips. You may even consider laminating a copy and keeping it in a drawer.

Want to take your preparedness a step further? Keep a basic toiletry tote packed, so it’s ready on a moment’s notice.

If you are thinking about traveling to some exotic country, I have a tip that may give you peace of mind. That’s tomorrow…