Nature is a Mother

January 22nd, 2012

A small group of kayakers paddled alongside the shores of the Osa Peninsula in Golfo Dulce, sunlight reflecting emerald rainforest on the cerulean sea. Oaring their way around a tip of land and into a serene bay, the threesome unexpectedly came upon an enormous Humpback whale. At first delighted, the people quickly realized the fifty-foot leviathan was behaving strangely. It was swimming slowly and in circles. Concerned, the kayakers stopped at a safe distance and watched.

The whale descended. Minutes passed. When at last it rose again, it began breathing heavily as if in pain. Its blowhole gapped open and closed with increasing strain. The kayakers ached with compassion, their fiberglass crafts bobbing over tiny ripples caused by the labored inhalations. What, if anything, could be done to help the distressed whale? Was it dying? Suddenly the water flashed crimson. Great plumes of blood swelled from the behemoth as it drew a final jagged breath and slipped below the surface.

As the kayakers peered down at the black form, an odd movement twisted the depths. Moments later, a small wrinkled mass surged upward and broke the water’s surface—a newborn calf—pushed into the daylight by its mother for its first sweet breath of air. The kayakers had watched the birth of a Humpback!

When one of the men told me this story years after its occurence, his eyes twinkled with a hint of tears. Such emotion seems inevitable. Whales have long inspired reverence in the human heart, and having seen other kinds of babies born myself, I know the miracle of nativity leaves no witness untouched. But their experience was made even more amazing by its rarity—only a few people have ever seen a Humpback delivered! Despite years of research, mother whales still keep their secret. Magnificent titans, they surface and dive like black stitches across blue fabric, weaving mysteries of life we have yet to unravel.

Time to Celebrate!

November 25th, 2011

Humpback whale breaches in Golfo Dulce

Jump for joy! The impending Yellowfin tuna farm permitted for construction near the mouth of Golfo Dulce has been stopped! As Jorge would say, “Yipy!” In early November SETENA (Costa Rica’s Environmental Secretariat) took decisive action when it ended negotiations with Granjas Atuneras de Golfito S. A. The foreign interest conglomerate had been pushing for seven years to develop the tuna farm but was finally blocked after failure to comply with a Supreme Court order to perform an environmental impact study.

Well, they might not have conducted an investigation in Golfo Dulce, but Jorge and I certainly did. It was the tuna that first spurred our research. In January-February 2010 we undertook our first multi-species sighting survey to collect and publish baseline data on sea life before the area could be changed or damaged by a mariculture project. The interesting findings from that study, which were presented in my 2010 project report, justified funding for the recent extension survey in July-August of this year.

Which brings me to my second bit of exciting news: The Rainy season extension of the multi-species marine sighting survey in Golfo Gulce, Costa Rica, July – August 2011, final report and comparative summary is now available. This new paper not only illuminates details of our 2011 (rainy season) findings but offers a comparative look at the 2010 (dry season) data.

All our sighting points from both surveys (red = dry season 2010, purple = rainy season 2011) reveal high-use areas for marine fauna inside Golfo Dulce.

In fact, if you combine both surveys, Jorge and I logged a total of 55 days on the water for a total of 424 observation hours. And we recorded 458 sightings for over 38 species of marine wildlife! Whew!

What were the highlights?
  • Well, our data indicate that Humpback whales from both northern and southern hemispheres utilize Golfo Dulce. Birthing events were reported to us during both seasons and we personally witnessed nursing.
  • We identified over 80 individual Bottlenose dolphins inside the gulf. We also documented skin disease in the population, which could possibly be linked to human activity.
  • Along with sightings for Olive Ridley sea turtles and critically endangered Hawksbill sea turtles, we found Golfo Dulce to be a year-round breeding and feeding ground for hundreds of Pacific Green sea turtles!
  • And by marking the distribution of pelagic sea snakes, we revealed a resident colony of xanthic (all-yellow or predominantly yellow) pelagic sea snakes in the upper reaches of the gulf.

What an honor to be able to share these incredible insights—Golfo Dulce is clearly an important marine habitat for many species! BTW… I’ve posted photos and video of several animals in previous blogs and on my Facebook page, so you might want to browse around.

Now that Golfo Dulce is no longer under imminent threat of a tuna farm, there is  time for even more research. Many excellent biologists are conducting studies on specific species and their emerging data is just as exciting as ours. In fact, there is every indication that Golfo Dulce will gain international recognition as a rare tropical fiord with a unique ecology. So thanks to everyone who worked so hard to protect it!

Jorge holds up a Yipy candybar during our 2010 survey. It became a running joke between us.

The Human Heart Knows No Bounds

October 28th, 2011

Have you ever seen that Pass It On billboard with Christopher Reeves in his wheelchair and the simple words Super man?

There is nothing more inspiring than a hero. Someone who goes up against impossible odds, holding to a dream. Someone who faces devastation and yet refuses defeat. Someone who forges past unthinkable obstacles to reach extraordinary achievement. And the greatest hero does it all for the service of others.

We see heroes in movies all the time—sometimes wearing red capes. And we love them! Why? Because they reflect that pureness inside each of us that wants to believe if the world threatened to crush us, we too would rise like a phoenix, we too would stand for the underdog, we too would save the day.

We love heroes because they raise the bar on our own humanity.

Eric Northbrook is my cousin. He’s not a movie star like Christopher Reeves, but he did start a foundation called HeadNorth, which helps people with spinal cord injuries reclaim their lives. Who would do such a profoundly compassionate thing? 

A hero. 

In January 2006 Eric was living the American dream, a successful commercial real estate exec with a lovely wife, Denise, and two adorable kids. Then his world went spinning. He was paralyzed in a motorcycle accident. Suddenly paraplegic, he had every excuse to collapse in despair. Instead he built a foundation. With Denise by his side, he not only regained his own footing but helped others find theirs. He took the fall and came back fighting, invincible.

Then Denise died. In 2010 she passed from cancer at only 43 years old, leaving Eric a bereaved husband and single father. It is agonizing to imagine. Who overcomes such unbearable heartbreak? 

A hero.

Despite it all, Eric keeps going. This month he took the Challenged Athletes Foundation Million Dollar Challenge—a seven-day, 620-mile bike ride from San Francisco to San Diego—using only his arms! In a recent email he wrote, “I am dedicating this ride to my late wife Denise and our two beautiful children Justin and Sydney.”

Raising the bar. That’s my cuz.

Okay, truth is Eric and I are 3rd cousins and we don’t really know each other. I follow him through my mother’s emails. But the family tie still feels significant. It makes me think maybe I have a little of what Eric has inside me. Courage. Stamina. Faith.

Of course all of us do.

Hopefully we are never pushed to reveal our strongest selves through the kind of inconceivable tragedy that Eric has faced. But knowing he is out there braving it for the greater good is incredibly inspiring. It makes me stand a little taller against the odds. Work a little harder to reach my goals. Give a little more to help others.

Eric is a super man. He may have traded the red cape for a hand cycle… but, man, he still flies.

Do I Know You? Building a Foto-ID Catalog of Bottlenose Dolphins in Golfo Dulce

September 23rd, 2011

Dorsal A lives in Golfo Dulce, Costa Rica

Most of you know I have been working toward identifying the Bottlenose dolphins (Turciops truncatus) inside Golfo Dulce. After my first round of research I was able to recognize about 40 individual dolphins, some of which can be seen in my 2010 report. Now, after two years of laborious investigation, I have come to identify about twice that many!

You may be wondering how exactly one goes about identifying dolphins.

Well, pioneering biologists studying various species discovered ingenious ways to distinguish individuals. Jaguars have unique spots.  Gorillas have unique nose prints. Dolphins have unique dorsal fins. By examining the shape, natural markings, scars and trailing edge, a dorsal may appear as distinct as a fingerprint. 

Of course dolphins don’t sit quietly at the surface while you study the intricacies of their dorsal patterns, so ID work is best done through photos. A good close-up photo allows us to visualize, even trace, the dorsal outline. Once we “know” this dolphin, we can often recognize it from a distance. We can then go back and look for it in other sighting photos and thus begin tracking its movements, as well as associations with fellow dolphins. It’s a tedious task, yet also exciting. Every sea of dorsal fins suddenly becomes an intriguing puzzle of who’s-who!

If you followed my facebook page, you may remember seeing a picture of a Bottlenose named Dorsal A. Dorsal A was the first dolphin Jorge and I recognized during our 2010 survey.  With a fully severed fin, it’s no surprise that Dorsal A stood out in the crowd. But variances are rarely so obvious. Here are a few more of Golfo Dulce’s Bottlenose dolphins to test your discerning eye:

There are similarities. But take note of EVERY mark—especially nicks and notches in the trailing edge that could be seen from either side. Would you recognize these individuals if you saw them again? With side-by-side photos, I suppose you would.

Okay, so now you are probably wondering, why go to so much trouble?

Researchers create Foto-ID catalogs and databases to expand scientific understanding of dolphin populations and their habitats. That is my goal for the Golfo Dulce group and I hope to rally other Golfo Dulce researchers to collaborate. By combining current, historical and future photos, our database will have broader impact. But good science is only part of it. I am also sharing my Foto-ID images to serve outreach programs.  

Familiarity breeds a sense of responsibility—we are more likely to help those we know—so Osa Conservation has been working on a Community Dolphin Project to introduce the locals to the most recognizable and/or commonly seen individuals. By connecting people with their dolphin neighbors they will hopefully be inspired to protect them… and the gulf.

For me it’s a circle of work. Wildlife. Science. Knowledge-sharing. Conservation. And if I’m lucky enough to meet a few dolphins in the loop, how in the world could I complain?

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 4: And Her Eyes Sparkled with the Secret of It

August 26th, 2011

Now the days float by in blues and teals and misty greys. I feel like Margaret Wise Brown’s black kitten, peering  from my seaward vessel in search of life’s secrets. What will we find today? Perhaps a little island.

the back of a resting green sea turtle with free-loading barnacles

Although our motor is plenty powerful, we are still at the mercy of the water, our boat falling into rhythm with the waves. Rumba rolls. Foxtrot ripples. Sometimes there comes a swaying chop that turns our dance into a wild salsa and leaves us laughing like giddy children.

Only once have we met the kind of intimidating swells that could topple us. We were skirting the waters near the open Pacific when the wind picked up. Suddenly we were being tousled by 6-foot waves that seemed to be fighting over which direction to go. Jorge held tight to the controls and powered us into the face of each contender so as not to be hit broadside and overturned. 

Water splashed willynilly into our boat and, as I struggled to keep my weight planted, I got to thinking about the marine radio that we didn’t yet have and how this whole research thing was just a tinge on the edgy side. Thankfully the battle lasted less than an hour, the bullying waves wandered off like street punks and the gulf smoothed over. Jorge acted nonchalant but I could tell he was rattled.

Of course it rains—it is the rainy season. Huddled in waterproof slickers we always keep our course, faithful foolhardy souls. But downpours are rare and our visibility has remained excellent. And just in case you have spent even a moment wondering if it’s all worthwhile…

Bottlenose dolphins traveling in a protective pack with a newborn (look closely!)

baby Humpback whale by mama, nursing (see the milk?), resting (see the paired blowholes?), spyhopping (see the bumps on its head called tubercles?)

our 2010 data showed all the sea snakes in upper Golfo Dulce are bright yellow... I just love them!

dolphins are said to leap when searching for food, which may be better seen from above the surface

Each day brings new discoveries and adds to the wonderful images adrift in my head*. Each day is the same and yet so very different. Each day I wonder… What will we find today?

*I have been posting additional photos and videos on Facebook.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 3: Rub-a-dub-dub, a Toy Boat in the Tub

August 12th, 2011

Caja de Fósforos is Spanish for "matchbox"

Jorge and I wasted no time getting out on the water in our miniture-sized boat, newly named Caja de Fósforos, and that first day had a coming-home feeling. The Gulf was just as I remembered it and I found myself delighting in the familiar landmarks—the emerald peaks of Piedras Blancas National Park, the sirena statue guarding the palm-lined beaches of tiny Playa Blanca, white rolling waves crashing on the rocks near Tamales and, to the south, the mouth of Golfo Dulce, open as though saying something thoughtful and neighborly to the coast of Panáma seen through the haze. My soul instantly reintegrated.

A pod of Pantropical Spotted dolphins stitched past. I was surprised by their disinterest; we could always count on them to swirl about our boat for a bit of play. Why no interest today? Then we noticed that the group was subtly divided into pairs and each pair arched in unison with one large and one small dorsal fin rhythmically breaking the water surface. Mothers with calves.

mermaid statue among the reefs of Playa Blanca

Ah, yes, this study was about seasonal shifts after all, and here was my first inkling that life might be just a little different in Golfo Dulce during the rainy season. We watched Blue crabs that day too— little aquatic crustaceans I hadn’t seen before—kicking around at the surface.

Although storm clouds could be seen in several directions, the rain held its breath over the water and blue skies prevailed. And a few sea turtles lifted their heads to nod our passing. It was a spectacular day of seascapes. 

However, arriving back at the marina in the afternoon, Jorge and I discovered that in our enthusiasm we had made one troubling miscalculation of timing. The tide had dropped and now 500 feet of sand stretched between us and our trailer. A bigger boat could be moored in the deep water. But Caja de Fósforos would sink in a soaking rain so had be hauled out every day. Because our old truck was too weak manage the steep launch ramp, we had used the shoreline for access.

I looked at Jorge hoping he could pull a bit of his rainforest magic.

“Eye-yey-yey,” was all he could muster.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 2: Another Year, Another Broken Boat

July 22nd, 2011

Raya, our boat from 2010, looking very sad indeed

The 50 hp motor we needed to push our 19-foot Raya was on the fritz. The gear box was shot. Having just arrived to discover the fact, I put on my best no-worries-every-problem-has-a-solution smile  and sat with Mike to explore my options—none of them floated any better than my defunct boat, which sat covered in leaf litter, perched on several decaying logs outside the house. 

That night I lay awake, twisting scenarios in my head with no resolution. Even Monday’s 5-hour car trip to plead with the marine mechanic proved fruitless and the stress was starting to feel like army ants in my stomach. All I could do was hold tight to my one last hope: Jorge. 

Jorge. He’s like a jungle Superman. I am always amazed by his calm, usually silent demeanor and ability to solve any problem with whatever meager supplies are on hand. Within minutes of his return home, he had a plan and I remember thinking, Why was I ever in doubt? 

Wednesday found us driving around the pueblo with Jorge congenially asking to borrow items not currently in use. Within an hour he had pieced together a water-worthy ensemble: a boat that would work with the small 15 hp motor at Mike’s and a short trailer to haul it. I couldn’t have been more relieved. 

There was however, one itty-bitty problem. The new boat was, well, itty-bitty. A mere 10-feet long. When the weather mounts, how would we possibly survive the swelling waves in this dinky tugboat?

Shame, shame, I thought, Never look a gift boat in the mouth.

GOLFO DULCE 2011, PART 1: One Ticket to Paradise

July 8th, 2011

the view from the plane as we approached Golfo Dulce with the Osa Peninsula in the distance

I arrived in Puerto Jiménez, Costa Rica on a perfect Sunday morning after curving down out of the clouds and sweeping over my beloved Golfo Dulce. Stepping onto the tarmac, a twinkle of birdsong rushed from the green forest to greet me and a sweet dampness hung in the air like a tropical welcome sign. I took a deep inhale and let the place soak in through my lungs. Ahhh, Paradise. 

Soon I was back at the office of Osa Conservation (formerly Friends of the Osa), settling my belongings in the back bedroom and relishing the excitement of a project poised at the starting gate. Soon I would be on the water with the regular marine crowd of dolphins and sea turtles, doing my extension survey. 

I hung my mosquito net and took my first cold shower and, when the clock reached a respectable hour for visiting friends, I made my way the few short blocks to see Mike and Jorge. The reunion was long awaited. We had been discussing plans for this rainy season study since October 2010, sharing emails of anticipation. But I found Mike alone. “Where’s Jorge?” I inquired after a giant endless hug. 

“Corcovado,” he said, adding quickly to abate my disappointment, “He’ll be back Tuesday night.”

I was a little bummed. My arrival wasn’t nearly as festive as I’d imagined it would be and by the look on Mike’s face I could tell there was more bad news. He finally got it out, “The boat motor is broken.”

What?? Wait, I’m having déjà vu. A broken boat motor? Didn’t we already do this LAST time? And just like that my happy little universe crumbled into chaos.

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIPS: Homemade Instant Oatmeal—Just Add Water

June 24th, 2011

I’m not a big breakfast person but I know it’s an important meal. So when I’m out-of-town, I always try to eat something small but nutritious, especially if I’ll be driving cross-country, working outside or heading into an all-day event.

Instant oatmeal was a childhood favorite but they put a lot of junky preservatives in the store-bought kind. Turns out you can make your own—just they way you like it—using natural, healthful ingredients. And it tastes even better!

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIP #5: Prepare some baggies of homemade instant oatmeal for quick easy meals on the road.

I got this recipe from my Costa Rican friend Alberto on a 4-day kayak trip. He camps a lot and makes this delicious oatmeal drink every morning in the field. Individual servings can be put in zip-lock sandwich baggies so you can carry a stash in your tote.

Single serving (mix to taste):

5-6 tbsp 1-minute oats (5-minute oats will be chewier)

2-3 tbsp dry milk powder

2 tsp sugar

¼  tsp salt

1 tbsp ground flaxseed (optional)

Sprinkle of cinnamon (optional) 

Just pour the dry contents into a mug (or bowl), add hot water and stir. It’s ready to eat! 

I do hope you’ve discovered something new and helpful in this week’s series. If you have some travel tips of your own, please share them with me on Facebook. And as you embark on your summer get-away, here’s wishing you safe and happy travels!

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIPS: Register with the Embassy

June 23rd, 2011

I went to Kenya many moons ago, when Kenya was safe for tourists. Things have changed. Because of swings in politics and economies, it’s vital that you have access to international travel information when planning a trip abroad.

While certain destinations may be foolhardy to consider, most are generally safe. That said, some of the most beautiful places on Earth come with a bit of risk, requiring you to pragmatically consider your wellbeing.

BROOKE’S TRAVEL TIP #4: Register your international trip with STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program).

The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program is free service, provided by the Department of State, Bureau of Consular Affairs. It is available to any U.S. citizen who is traveling to a foreign nation.

Basically you enter a few details about your upcoming trip and the system registers you with the U.S. embassy or consulate at your destination. The information, which is protected so it can’t be shared without written authorization, will serve you should trouble arise. If you face any emergency off U.S. soil, our government can provide help faster and more effectively. This includes lost or stolen passports, which can happen anywhere.

STEP also sends you automatic updates, travel warnings and alerts that may affect the country you will be visiting. This is especially important when you are heading off to places facing political fluctuations like, for example, Thailand.

I found out about STEP when I was planning my 2007 trip to Guatemala. It was to be my first solo venture into a developing nation and registering my dates, itinerary and emergency contacts—knowing I was “on the radar” so to speak—definitely helped put me at ease. The trip went smoothly, as they usually do, and I never needed any assistance, but I appreciated the insurance and I’ve utilized the service several times since.

Tomorrow is Friday and my last tip will be a recipe for a simple traveler’s breakfast.